Perthshire, the Cairngorms and Speyside

The A9 from Perth to Inverness runs through the middle of Scotland. Most people drive it in one go. Slow down and you find woodland towns, the Cairngorm plateau and the densest cluster of whisky distilleries in the country.

Loch Morlich with the Cairngorm mountains behind
Loch Morlich and the northern Cairngorms. Photo: dave conner, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Last checked 11 November 2026. Timetables, prices and opening dates change: check the operator before you travel.

Perthshire

Perthshire is often called Big Tree Country, and in October its beech and larch woods turn gold. It is about 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes north of Edinburgh.

The Cairngorms National Park

The Cairngorms is the largest national park in the UK, about 4,500 square kilometres of mountain, pine forest and moor. The high plateau is arctic in character and dangerous in poor weather; stick to low-level walks unless you are experienced and equipped.

Royal Deeside and Braemar

On the east side of the park, Braemar and Ballater sit on the River Dee. Balmoral Castle's grounds and ballroom open to visitors for a limited season, usually in spring and early summer; check dates. The Braemar Gathering, a Highland games, is held on the first Saturday in September. The roads to Deeside from the south (the A93 over the Cairnwell Pass by Glenshee) and from Tomintoul (the A939 by the Lecht) have snow gates and are closed several times most winters.

Speyside

The lower River Spey, between Grantown, Aberlour, Dufftown and Keith, holds around half of Scotland's malt whisky distilleries. Many offer tours, but most need booking, some close or shorten hours in winter, and some have no visitor centre at all. Check each one's website before you go.

If you are tasting, do not drive. Scotland's drink-drive limit is lower than in England and Wales: 50 milligrams of alcohol per 100 millilitres of blood. Many distilleries offer driver's drams to take away. This is one of the strongest arguments for a driver.

Drive times

RouteTypical time
Edinburgh to Pitlochry1 hr 30 min
Pitlochry to Aviemore1 hr
Aviemore to Inverness40 to 45 min
Aviemore to Dufftown1 hr
Aviemore to Braemar (via Tomintoul and the Lecht)1 hr 30 min, when open

The A9 has been dualled in sections; the rest is single carriageway with overtaking lanes. Traffic is heavy on summer Fridays and Sundays. Average speed cameras run along much of its length.

Loch Tummel seen from the Queen's View near Pitlochry
Loch Tummel from the Queen's View, west of Pitlochry. Photo: Darrin Antrobus, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons